3D Print Troubleshooting: Stringing, Warping, Layer Splitting, and Elephant Foot

3D Print Troubleshooting: Stringing, Warping, Layer Splitting, and Elephant Foot The four most common FDM print failures — what causes them and exactly how to fix each one. Stringing (Spider Webs Between Parts) Stringing happens when the nozzle oozes molten filament while traveling between areas. The result is thin plastic threads draped across your model. Causes: Temperature too high, insufficient retraction, slow travel speed. Fixes: Lower temperature 5°C at a time. PLA at 215°C+ strings badly. Try 200–205°C. Increase retraction distance. Direct drive: 1–2mm. Bowden: 4–7mm. Never exceed 2mm on direct drive. Increase retraction speed to 40–60mm/s. Enable "Wipe on retract" in OrcaSlicer or PrusaSlicer. Raise travel speed to 150–200mm/s — less time in the air means less ooze. Enable "Avoid crossing perimeters" — routes travel moves inside the model. Test: Print a retraction tower to dial settings without wasting a full roll. Warping (Corners Lifting Off the Bed) Edges or corners curl upward during printing. ABS and ASA are most prone. PLA and PETG less so. Causes: Rapid cooling causes uneven contraction, pulling corners up. Fixes: Clean your bed with IPA 90%+. Fingerprint oils kill adhesion. Increase first-layer squish. The first layer should be slightly compressed. Use an enclosure. Even a cardboard box helps for ABS. Lower print fan speed for the first 3–5 layers. Set fan to 0% for layers 1–3. Add a brim. A 5–8mm brim dramatically resists lifting forces. Raise bed temperature. ABS: 100–110°C. PETG: 75–80°C. PLA: 55–65°C. Use textured PEI. Grips PLA and PETG far better than smooth glass. Layer Splitting / Delamination Layers separate or crack along layer lines — weak inter-layer bonding. Causes: Temperature too low, layer height too tall, print speed too fast, wet filament. Fixes: Raise nozzle temperature 5°C at a time. Reduce layer height. Max is 75% of nozzle diameter. With 0.4mm nozzle, max is 0.3mm. Slow down to 40–50mm/s for structural parts. Dry your filament. Wet filament = weak bubbly layers. Dehydrate at 45°C (PLA) or 65°C (PETG/Nylon) for 6–8 hours. Test for moisture: Crackling or popping sounds as filament feeds = water flashing to steam. Dry it immediately. Elephant Foot (Bulging First Layer) The first layer squishes wider than the rest, creating a foot that makes the bottom wider than designed. Causes: Z-offset too low, bed too hot, insufficient first-layer cooling. Fixes: Raise Z-offset slightly so the nozzle isn't pancaking the first layer. Enable "Elephant foot compensation" in OrcaSlicer/PrusaSlicer. Start at 0.1mm. Lower bed temperature 5°C — an overly hot bed keeps the first layer soft and spreading. Turn on part cooling from layer 2 at 30–50%. Quick Reference

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