Post-Processing FDM Prints — Sanding, Priming, and Painting
post processingsandingpaintingfinishing
Off the printer, FDM parts have visible layer lines. Here's how to get a smooth, painted finish worthy of a display or product.
Sanding
Work through grits progressively — don't skip steps.
| Grit | Purpose |
|---|---|
| 80–120 | Remove large layer lines and layer shift marks |
| 220 | Smooth out scratches from previous grit |
| 400 | Pre-primer smoothing |
| 800 | Post-primer sanding |
| 1500–2000 | Final finish before paint or clear coat |
Tips:
- Wet sand from 400 grit up — less dust, better finish
- PLA sands easier than PETG
- Don't over-sand thin walls — can cut through
- Use a sanding block for flat surfaces to avoid rounding edges
Filling
For deep layer lines or imperfections, fill before priming:
- Spot putty / body filler — works well, sand smooth when dry
- XTC-3D epoxy coating — brush on, self-levels, adds strength
- Polyester primer (high-build) — multiple coats fill shallow lines
Priming
- Clean part with IPA — remove all oils and dust
- Apply filler primer in light coats (2–3)
- Let dry fully (30 min between coats)
- Sand with 800 grit wet
- Inspect — re-prime any remaining lines
- Final 1000–1500 grit before paint
Painting
- Rattle cans work fine for most hobby use
- Adhesion promoter first for PETG/ABS — paint flakes off otherwise
- Light thin coats — 2–3 coats minimum
- Let cure 24 hours before handling
Clear Coat
- Matte, satin, or gloss to taste
- 2K rattle can (2-component) for durability
- Wax after full cure for protection