2011 Audi A5 2.0 TFSI (EA888 CAEB) Timing Chain Replacement: Complete DIY Guide

Engine code CAEB. The chain is accessed from the front of the engine — you pull the front clip (bumper, headlights, radiator, and associated ancillaries) to get to the timing covers. This is sometimes called putting the car in "service position." Plan for a full day minimum, longer if you have not done front clip work before. A helper makes the chain installation step significantly easier.

Note on EA888 generations: Later Gen 3 EA888 engines (post-2015, engine codes CZPA, DKZA, etc.) moved the timing chain to the rear of the engine near the transmission. The 2011 A5 CAEB is Gen 2 — the chain is up front. Do not confuse the procedures.

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Should You Do It Now? — How to Check Chain Wear

Before tearing into the engine, confirm the chain actually needs replacement. Two methods:

Method 1 — VCDS / OBD-Eleven Cam Adaptation Reading

With engine fully warmed up and at idle, read Measuring Value Block (MVB) 093 or search for "Camshaft Adaptation Intake Bank 1, Phase Position."

Important: The reading is only valid at idle after a full heat soak. It updates slowly. Values while driving are not meaningful.

Method 2 — Tensioner Ridge Count

Remove the tensioner inspection plug on the driver's side of the block (10mm hex, behind the engine). Count the ridges (notches) visible on the tensioner piston.

The 2011 CAEB uses the original-style tensioner. If yours is original and has never been replaced, inspect it carefully — the tensioner is a known failure point on this engine, separate from chain stretch.

Common Fault Codes That Point to Timing Issues

• P0016 — Crankshaft/camshaft position correlation (Bank 1 Sensor A)
• P0017 — Crankshaft/camshaft position correlation (Bank 1 Sensor B)
• P0341 — Camshaft position sensor range/performance

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Parts List

Replace all of the following together. Doing the job twice because you skipped a guide or tensioner is not a good time.

Quality note: Use OEM (Audi/VW dealer), INA, or Schaeffler-branded components. Avoid sub-$100 chain kits — the chain tolerances on cheap kits are often loose and the tensioner quality is poor. ECS Tuning, FCP Euro, and Pelican Parts carry quality kits with sourcing transparency.

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Special Tools Required

Do not attempt this job without the proper locking tools. There is no reliable way to hold the cams and crank in position without them. Aftermarket sets covering the CAEB are available for $60–120 from Amazon and work well for a one-time job.

Also needed:

• 24mm socket (to turn crank via the crank bolt)
• T30 Torx bit (chain tensioner and guide bolts)
• Triple square / XZN bit set (M8 and M10 sizes — used on chain guides and misc)
• Torque wrench capable of 9 Nm through 150 Nm range
• Angle torque gauge or marked socket for degree turns
• Breaker bar
• Digital calipers (to verify timing mark measurement at reassembly)
• Engine hoist or support if dropping subframe (some procedures require it for access)
• Oil drain pan — you will spill oil

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Torque Specifications

All values are for the CAEB 2.0 TFSI engine. Bolts marked TTY (torque-to-yield) must be replaced — they are single-use stretch bolts.

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Disassembly Procedure

Preparation

1. Let the engine fully cool. Do not work on a hot engine.
2. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Tape or bag the terminal so it cannot make contact accidentally.
3. Remove the engine cover and air intake assembly.
4. Remove the cowl cover (plastic trim along the base of the windshield) for better access.
5. Remove all spark plugs — this makes rotating the engine by hand much easier and prevents hydrolocking if oil drains into a cylinder.

Remove the Front Clip (Service Position)

Getting the car into service position is the access step for the CAEB timing chain. It sounds intimidating but is straightforward — you are removing everything from the front fascia forward, then hinging or completely removing the front clip to expose the timing cover.

1. Drain the engine oil now (recommended — you will change it after the job anyway).
2. Drain the coolant — open the lower radiator drain, or disconnect the lower radiator hose. Catch it in a drain pan.
3. Remove the front bumper cover. There are clips along the top edge under the hood, screws in the wheel arch liners, and bolts underneath. The bumper cover pulls forward once unclipped.
4. Disconnect and remove both headlight assemblies (typically 3–4 bolts each, plus electrical connectors). Label the connectors if needed.
5. Remove the grille if not integral to the bumper cover.
6. Disconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses, the coolant reservoir hose, the transmission cooler lines (if automatic — plug these immediately to prevent fluid loss), and the AC condenser lines if your setup requires full removal (some techs leave the AC system intact and just unbolt the condenser from the radiator, letting it hang carefully without disconnecting refrigerant lines).
7. Remove the radiator mounting bolts and lift the radiator out. Some setups allow the radiator and condenser to come out as a unit.
8. Remove the intercooler if equipped and accessible from the front.
9. At this point the timing cover(s) should be exposed. You will see the upper chain cover (behind the cam cover) and the lower chain cover (larger, below, secured to the block).

Valve / Cam Cover and Accessories

1. Remove the serpentine belt. Use a 17mm socket on the tensioner to release tension, slip the belt off. Remove the tensioner pulley and idler while you're there.
2. Disconnect the camshaft position sensors (both intake and exhaust side) — small 2-pin connectors on the cam cover.
3. Disconnect and remove the N205 valve from the cam cover — one connector, one bolt.
4. Remove the PCV hoses from the cam cover. The large hose at the rear is tight but will come off with steady pressure.
5. Remove the high-pressure fuel pump (HPFP): disconnect the fuel lines first (have rags ready for spillage), then the three mounting bolts. Lift straight up.
6. Remove the valve / cam cover. 6–8 bolts depending on variant. Loosen outside bolts first, work inward. Lift straight up.

Set to TDC

27.Install the dial gauge (VAS 6079) with the T10170A/1 adapter in the Number 1 spark plug hole (front of engine, closest to the accessory drive side). 22.Slowly rotate the crankshaft clockwise (normal direction of rotation, viewed from the front of the car) using a 24mm socket on the crank bolt until the piston rises and the dial gauge reaches its highest point. This is TDC. 23.Confirm with the external timing mark: the notch on the vibration damper should align with the arrow or mark on the lower chain cover. 24.WARNING: The crankshaft sprocket is NOT keyed to the crankshaft. It is held only by the damper bolt friction. If you remove the bolt without the T10368 spacer installed, the sprocket can move. Note the sprocket timing marks before proceeding.

Remove the Damper and Upper Cover

25.With TDC confirmed, use T10355 to counter-hold the damper while you loosen the crankshaft bolt with a 24mm socket and breaker bar. You need a helper to hold T10355 steady. 26.Remove the crank bolt. Slide T10368 spacer onto the crank stub (it replaces the bolt's clamping force and keeps the lower crank sprocket in its correct orientation). 27.The vibration damper has teeth that mesh with the crank sprocket — take note of the single wide key tooth alignment before and during removal. 28.Remove the serpentine belt tensioner (one bolt, 17mm). 29.Remove the cam chain cover (7 bolts). It's on there solidly — do not rush. Be careful not to damage the gasket mating surface. Use a plastic pry tool at the seam, not a screwdriver. 30.With the cover off, confirm the cam sprocket timing marks are where they should be. Both should be at the 12 o'clock position, with the sprocket reference marks aligned horizontally. Mark the sprockets with a paint marker if you want a visual reference during reassembly.

Lock the Cams and Remove the Chain

31.Install the camshaft locking tool (T40271 / T40196) into the slots at the rear of the camshafts. This locks both cams in their TDC position. Do not skip this step. 32.Remove the intake camshaft central control valve using T10352 or T10352-1. This bolt has a LEFT-HAND thread — loosen it by turning clockwise. It is torqued to 35 Nm so it will feel like it is fighting you. 33.Remove the exhaust camshaft sprocket bolt (standard right-hand thread) and washer using the triple-square socket. Set the washer aside — you need a new bolt but can inspect whether the washer needs replacement. 34.Remove the cam bridge / bearing bracket. There are multiple bolts: the single large M8 with a large washer (this is the TTY bolt to replace) and several smaller bolts. Remove the smaller bolts first, then the large one last. Lift the bracket off.

WARNING: When the cam bridge comes off, the intake camshaft is free to rotate. The spring pressure in the cam adjuster will snap the intake cam forward suddenly. Keep hands clear. This is a known surprise on this engine — forum members describe it colorfully. Be ready for it.

35.Lock the timing chain tensioner in the retracted position. Old-style tensioner: use a suitable tool to lift the locking wedge, press in the piston, then insert a T40011 pin. New-style tensioner: squeeze the circlip, push in the piston, insert T40267. 36.Remove the two T30 bolts holding the chain tensioner to the block. Remove the tensioner. 37.Remove the chain guide on the left side. It is held by a 10mm triple-square bolt. 38.Remove the upper timing chain. The chain will come off the cam sprockets — keep the cam locking tool in place throughout.

Remove the Lower (Balance Shaft / Oil Pump) Chain

39.Retract the oil pump chain tensioner (same locking procedure as above) and secure with T40011. 40.Remove the T30 bolt holding the oil pump tensioner rail. 41.Unhook and remove the oil pump chain. Note this chain does not have a specific timing orientation — it just drives the oil pump and does not need timed marks, but the sprockets must seat correctly on reinstallation.

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Inspection While You're In There

Before installing new parts:

• Inspect the balance shaft bearing screens (small mesh screens in the block). These sometimes fall out and cause oil starvation to the balance shafts. If the screen is missing or damaged, it needs to be replaced or the passage cleaned.
• Inspect all plastic guide surfaces for cracks, grooves, or missing chunks. Replace anything that looks marginal.
• Check the tensioner piston extension even on the old one to understand what you were dealing with.
• Inspect the cam adjuster (VANOS unit on the intake cam). Look for wear on the vane teeth. If the timing has been off for a long time, the adjuster may be worn internally.

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Reassembly Procedure

Install the Lower (Oil Pump) Chain First

1. Route the oil pump chain onto the sprockets. No timing marks required — just ensure the chain is on all teeth and seated.
2. Install the oil pump tensioner guide. Torque the T30 bolt to 9 Nm.
3. Release the tensioner locking pin — the tensioner will extend and take up slack automatically.

Install the Upper Timing Chain

1. Before installing the new chain, confirm the crankshaft sprocket timing marks are correct. With TDC set, the marks on the sprocket should be at the 12 o'clock position.
2. Route the new upper timing chain over the crank sprocket first. The chain has colored (copper or painted) links — these mark the timing reference points. The colored link on the crank end aligns with the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket.
3. Route the chain up to the cam sprockets. The two colored links on the upper end align with the timing marks on the intake and exhaust cam sprockets respectively. This takes patience and usually a helper — one person holds tension on the chain while the other aligns the marks.
4. Install the right-side chain guide rail. Torque guide pins to 20 Nm.
5. Install the left-side tensioning rail. Note: You must remove the camshaft locking tool to slide the tensioning rail into position from below. Have your helper hold the intake cam with an 18mm wrench on the hex at the back of the cam to prevent it rotating while you remove and reinstall the locking tool.
6. Install the cam bridge / bearing bracket. Start all bolts hand-tight. Torque the smaller bolts to 9 Nm. Torque the single large M8 bolt to 20 Nm + 90° (replace this bolt — it's TTY).
7. Install the new exhaust camshaft sprocket bolt with the washer. Do not fully torque yet — leave it snug.
8. Install the intake cam central control valve with a new O-ring. Remember: left-hand thread. Torque counter-clockwise to tighten. Final torque: 35 Nm.
9. Install the new timing chain tensioner. Leave it locked (with the pin or clip still in). Torque the two T30 bolts to 9 Nm.
10. Now release the tensioner locking pin or clip. The tensioner piston will extend and take up chain slack automatically. After releasing, slide the small spring clip on the serrated piston shaft as far back as possible — this prevents the piston from collapsing if oil pressure is momentarily low at startup.

Torque the Exhaust Sprocket Bolt

1. With the chain under tension and the cam locking tool still installed, torque the exhaust cam sprocket bolt to 20 Nm + 90° using the triple-square socket. Use a helper or cam-holding tool to prevent the cam rotating as you torque.

Verify Timing Before Closing

1. Remove the camshaft locking tool.
2. Slowly rotate the engine by hand two full clockwise turns using a 24mm socket on the crankshaft bolt (T10368 spacer must still be installed).
3. Bring the engine back to TDC using the dial gauge in cylinder 1.
4. Verify timing marks:
5. Both camshaft sprocket timing marks should be aligned at the correct position (pointing toward each other horizontally when at TDC)
6. Crankshaft sprocket mark aligned at 12 o'clock / TDC position
7. Critical measurement check: Using digital calipers, measure the distance between the outer edge of the raised cast section on the upper chain guide and the timing mark on the intake camshaft adjuster. This measurement must be 61–64 mm. If it is outside this range, the timing is off — stop and redo the chain installation.
8. Second measurement: Distance between the intake cam adjuster timing mark and the exhaust cam sprocket timing mark must be 124–126 mm. Outside this range means incorrect timing.
9. If both measurements are within tolerance, the timing is set correctly.

Install the Vibration Damper

1. Remove the T10368 spacer.
2. Slide the vibration damper back onto the crankshaft. The damper has one wide-tooth key that must align with the matching wide key on the lower crank sprocket. This can be difficult to see — take your time. Incorrect alignment will cause the engine to jump time immediately on startup, bending valves.
3. Install a new crank damper bolt. Torque to 100 Nm then add 180° (or per your parts supplier's updated spec — some kits specify 150 Nm + 90°). Counter-hold with T10355 and helper.

Close Up

1. Install the cam chain cover with a new gasket. Torque the 7 cover bolts to 10 Nm (approximately 7 ft-lbs). Work in a criss-cross pattern.
2. Install the cam cover with a new gasket set. Torque the 6–8 bolts to 10 Nm, starting at the center and working outward.
3. Reinstall the HPFP, cam position sensors, N205 valve, PCV hoses, turbo coolant hose, and all electrical connectors. Work backward through the disassembly sequence.
4. Reinstall the serpentine belt tensioner, idler, and belt.
5. Reinstall spark plugs. Torque to 30 Nm.
6. Fill with fresh engine oil (Audi spec 502 00 or 504 00, 5W-30 or 5W-40 fully synthetic). The CAEB takes approximately 4.5 liters with filter.

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First Startup

Before turning the key:

• Double-check that all connectors are plugged in
• Check that all fuel lines are secure
• Check that the coolant hose is reconnected and clamped
• Confirm the oil is filled
• Check for any rags or tools left in the engine bay

Turn the key to position II (accessories on) without cranking — let the fuel pump prime for 3–5 seconds. Then crank.

The engine may crank for several seconds before firing on the first start — the oil passages need to fill and the tensioner needs to pressurize. This is normal. Do not crank more than 10 seconds continuously. Wait 30 seconds and try again if it does not start.

Once running:

• Listen for chain rattle — a brief rattle for 1–2 seconds at startup is normal until oil pressure builds. Persistent rattle is not.
• Check for oil leaks at the cam cover, chain cover, and HPFP area
• Let it idle to full temperature and monitor
• Clear any stored fault codes with VCDS or OBD-Eleven and drive gently for the first 20–30 miles

Perform an oil change after 500–1000 miles. There will be metal particles and assembly debris in the oil from the job.

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Fault Codes to Expect After Completion

The ECU stores cam timing adaptation values. After replacing the chain, clear all stored adaptations and fault codes. With VCDS: Adaptation → Engine → clear values. The ECU will relearn over the first few drive cycles. You may see P0016/P0017 briefly after the job — if they clear on their own after a heat cycle, timing is correct.

If P0016/P0017 persist after the ECU relearn: stop driving, recheck timing mark measurements. Something is off by one or more teeth.

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Quick Reference Torque Summary

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Timing Mark Verification Measurements

Both must be within spec after rotating the engine two full turns. If either is out of range, the chain is off by one or more teeth — redo the installation.