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laser Mar 26, 2026 ◯ 2 min read

Engraving Acrylic on the Ray5 20W: Cast vs Extruded

laserray5acrylicengravingsettings

Acrylic looks the same on the shelf but behaves very differently under the laser. Getting this right is the difference between a frosty clean result and a melted mess.

Cast vs Extruded — The Key Difference

PropertyCast AcrylicExtruded Acrylic
How madePoured into moldsPushed through rollers
Laser engraveBright white frosted mark ✓Faint grey, almost invisible ✗
Laser cutSlightly more meltCleaner cut edge
PriceMore expensiveCheaper
FlexibilityMore brittleSlightly more flexible
IDPaper masking on both sides (often)Usually one-side masking

Rule: Use cast acrylic for engraving. Extruded for cutting.

Identifying Cast vs Extruded

Engraving Settings (Cast Acrylic)

ColorSpeedPowerResult
Clear cast3000 mm/min30%Light frost
Clear cast2000 mm/min45%Standard frost
Clear cast1200 mm/min60%Deep frost
Black cast2500 mm/min35%Reveals clear underneath
Colored cast2000 mm/min40%Good contrast

Cutting Settings

ThicknessSpeedPowerPasses
2mm400 mm/min90%3
3mm300 mm/min100%4
4mm200 mm/min100%6

Tips

  1. Leave masking on while cutting — protects surface from smoke residue
  2. Remove masking before engraving — masking reduces mark contrast
  3. Air assist for cutting — prevents melting and flaming
  4. Defocus slightly for engraving — move bed down 2–3mm for softer, wider marks
  5. Flood with water for cold cutting on thin pieces (eliminates melt marks)

Common Issues

ProblemCauseFix
Faint/no markExtruded acrylicSwitch to cast
Melting on cut edgeToo slow or too many passesFaster speed, fewer passes with air assist
Smoke residue on surfaceMasking removedLeave masking on for cuts
Crazing (micro-cracks)Too much heatMore passes at lower power