Laser Engraving Anodized Aluminum on the Ray5 20W
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Anodized aluminum engraves cleanly on a diode laser — the beam burns through the anodized layer exposing the bare aluminum underneath. Result is a bright silver/metallic mark on a colored background.
Why It Works
Anodizing is a thin oxide layer (5–25 microns) dyed with color. The 450nm diode laser absorbs in the dye and burns it away. Bare aluminum beneath reflects and appears silver.
Best Results On
- Black anodized — highest contrast, easiest
- Red/blue/green anodized — good contrast
- Clear/natural anodized — minimal contrast, nearly invisible
- Gold anodized — moderate contrast
Settings — Ray5 20W
| Color | Speed | Power | Passes | Result |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Black | 800 mm/min | 85% | 1 | Bright silver mark |
| Black | 500 mm/min | 100% | 1 | Very bright, deep |
| Red/Blue | 600 mm/min | 90% | 1 | Good contrast |
| Natural | 300 mm/min | 100% | 1 | Faint mark |
Process
- Clean the surface — IPA wipe, no fingerprints. Oils ruin the mark.
- Focus correctly — anodized aluminum is flat, standard focus
- Air assist ON — keeps surface clean, removes debris
- Run test square first — 10×10mm at your settings
- Check contrast — should be clear silver on colored background
- Wipe with damp cloth — removes oxidation residue
LightBurn Settings
- Mode: Fill (for solid areas) or Line (for vectors)
- Line interval: 0.1mm (254 DPI) for fine detail
- Overscan: 2–3%
- Bi-directional: ON for speed
What Doesn't Work
- Bare/uncoated aluminum — reflects laser, no mark without Cermark spray
- Chrome plating — reflects completely
- Painted aluminum — burns paint, not clean anodizing
Tips
- Tape around part to protect from overspray char
- Photo engrave works well on black anodized — use Jarvis dither mode
- Type/logos engrave crisply at 0.1mm line interval
- Deep engraving (multiple passes) gives even brighter result