Build a Custom 3D-Printed Travel Case and Charging Dock for the ATS Mini V4
The ATS Mini V4 is a genuinely capable pocket shortwave/SSB receiver, but it ships as a bare board-and-screen unit with no real protection for travel — the exposed tuning knob, volume knob, and screen are all vulnerable to a drop in a backpack or glovebox. This project designs a two-piece travel case for transport plus a simple desktop charging dock, both sized specifically around the ATS Mini V4's dimensions rather than a generic project box.
Design Goals
- Full protection for the screen and both control knobs during transport, without needing to remove the radio from the case to use it casually.
- A cutout or window for the donut loop / telescopic antenna connection so the case doesn't have to come off for reception.
- USB-C access without opening the case, for charging on the go.
- A separate, open desktop dock that holds the radio upright at a comfortable viewing angle while charging, with a channel to route the cable neatly.
Measuring Before You Design
Before opening your CAD tool, take precise caliper measurements of your specific ATS Mini V4 unit — board revision and case variants have had minor dimensional differences across production runs, and a case designed from someone else's measurements online is a common source of a frustratingly snug or loose fit. Measure: overall PCB/enclosure footprint, screen bezel position, both knob shaft heights, the USB-C port location and depth, and the antenna jack position. Add roughly 0.3-0.4mm of clearance per side beyond your measurements to account for FDM printing tolerance — too tight and the case won't close on the first try; you can always sand for a snugger fit afterward, but you can't easily add material back if you print too small.
The Travel Case: Two-Shell Design
Model this as two halves that meet around the radio's perimeter, hinged or fully separable depending on preference:
- Bottom shell — a shallow tray that cradles the radio, with a cutout for the USB-C port aligned to the panel-mount extension cable (so charging doesn't require removing the radio from the case) and a small vent slot for the speaker.
- Top shell — a clear or open-window section over the screen (either leave it as a cutout, or print a separate section in a clear filament/resin if your printer supports it), plus raised bosses that clear the tuning and volume knobs without pressing on them when the lid is closed.
- Closure — small rare-earth magnets embedded in printed pockets on both shells hold the case shut with a satisfying snap and open easily with a thumbnail, avoiding the need for a separate latch mechanism.
Line both shell interiors with self-adhesive felt or thin foam sheet cut to fit — this is what actually protects the radio from scratches and knocks, since bare PETG against a screen or knob will mar both over time. Include a small pouch or elastic loop molded/glued into the lid for a spare AA... actually the ATS Mini runs on its internal battery, so use that space instead for a coiled short USB-C cable and a reusable silica gel packet to manage humidity if the case travels somewhere humid.
Printing Notes
Print in PETG rather than PLA for this one — a case that lives in a bag or glovebox sees more heat and impact than a typical desk print, and PETG's added toughness and heat resistance are worth the slightly trickier printing behavior. Use 3-4 perimeter walls and at least 15% infill for the shells so the magnet pockets and hinge/screw bosses have enough surrounding material to hold up to repeated opening. Add heat-set M3 inserts at the corners if you'd rather screw the shells together than rely purely on magnets — a hybrid approach (magnets for daily use, screws as a backup if the case takes a hard hit) is the most durable option.
The Charging Dock
The dock is a much simpler single-piece print: a cradle angled around 20-25 degrees from vertical so the screen is easy to read from a normal seated position, with a routed channel on the back for the USB-C cable so it doesn't dangle awkwardly, and a wide, weighted-feeling base (add rubber bumper feet to the bottom) so the radio doesn't tip the dock over when you turn the tuning knob. Leave the dock's cradle open on the sides rather than fully enclosed — this keeps the speaker and controls accessible so you can use the radio in the dock without lifting it out.
Safety Notes
- Lithium battery devices, including the ATS Mini's internal cell, should not be left charging unattended for extended periods (overnight, unsupervised) regardless of enclosure — this is a general precaution for any lithium-powered device, not specific to this build, but worth restating since a snug dock can make it easy to "set and forget."
- Don't fully enclose the radio in an airtight case while it's actively charging inside the case (if your design allows charge-in-case) — batteries generate some heat during charging and appreciate airflow.
- Check knob clearance carefully before committing to a final print — a lid that touches and drags on the tuning knob will wear the knob's detent feel over time.
This is a satisfying small project precisely because it's so specific — a case designed around one device's exact geometry fits and protects far better than any generic enclosure, and it's a good beginner exercise in caliper-driven parametric design before tackling larger enclosure projects on this site.
Related Guides
- ATS Mini V4: Flashing Custom Firmware From Your Phone (ats-mini vs H.J. Berndt)
- Fixing the ATS Mini Donut WB Loop Antenna (Anti-Series Wiring Defect)
- H.J. Berndt Firmware for the ATS Mini V4: The In-Depth Guide
- ATS Mini V4 Firmware Comparison: ats-mini vs H.J. Berndt
- ATS Mini V4 Unboxing & First Power-On: What's in the Box, Initial Setup
- Getting the Most from SSB (LSB/USB) on the ATS Mini V4
- Best Antennas for ATS Mini V4: Telescopic, Donut Loop, and External Options
- Building a DIY Antenna for the ATS Mini V4 on a Budget