How to Cut Acrylic on the Wolfpawn 4040 Pro Without Melting
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Acrylic melts and re-welds itself if you get the settings wrong. The fix is a single-flute O-flute bit and the right combination of speed and RPM.
Why Acrylic Melts
Acrylic's melting point is around 160°C. Multi-flute bits generate more heat per pass and don't clear chips fast enough. Chips get recut and friction builds. Single-flute O-flute bits cut once per revolution and eject chips efficiently.
Recommended Tooling
- 1/8" single-flute O-flute upcut — the correct bit for acrylic on a desktop CNC
- No substitute — 2-flute bits will melt unless settings are very conservative
Settings
| Thickness | RPM | Feed (mm/min) | DOC | Passes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 3 mm | 8000 | 800 | 1.5 mm | 2 |
| 5 mm | 8000 | 700 | 1.5 mm | 3–4 |
| 6 mm | 7500 | 600 | 1.5 mm | 4 |
Hold-Down
Acrylic must be perfectly flat:
- Leave protective film on during cutting — it grips to double-sided tape and protects surface
- Use tape AND clamps for pieces over 100 mm
- Vibration causes chatter marks — secure well
Signs You're Melting
- White powdery residue = correct (chips)
- Gummy, stringy material re-attaching to cut = too slow/too hot
- Melted balls on surface = feed too slow or RPM too high
If melting starts: increase feed rate, reduce RPM slightly, ensure single-flute bit.
Clear vs Colored vs Cast vs Extruded
- Cast acrylic cuts better — cleaner edge
- Extruded acrylic is cheaper but edges can micro-crack
- Colored acrylic cuts same as clear — settings unchanged
- Mirrored acrylic — remove backing film after cutting (not before)
Finishing Cut Edges
- Light sanding with 400+ grit to remove tool marks
- Flame polish for clear acrylic edges — propane or butane torch, quick pass
- Scrape with a cabinet scraper for a polished look without flame